Little Creek Maple Farm

Our adventures around the homestead.

Potato & Onion Bin – Part 2

Part two of the Potato & Onion Bin Project, focuses on the doors and getting them installed, you can read about Part 1 here which focuses on the construction of the carcass of the potato & onion bin.

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With the size of the doors roughed out on scrap paper and some quick math to figure out the size of the wood door frames I was ready to start cutting some pine boards to width.  I set my table saw to 2-1/2” wide and ripped the stiles and rails for the doors.  After ripping the stock to width, I switched out my regular saw blade for the stacked dado set.  I used to blades for a 1/4” width.  I set the saw up to be centered in the middle of the 3/4” wide stock I was using and set the depth to 1/4” and created the dadoes in my door frame stock.

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A after cutting everything to length and creating some tongues on the short stile that would fit in the dado of the rails I did some dry fitting of the door assembly and notice my tin fronts where just a little too long and too tall.

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So I had to grab my metal shears and trim off some of the excess metal panel.

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That this was a pretty cool shot of the excess trimmings below…

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With everything fitting nicely after trimming the tin panels down to size I glued the doors together and gave them a quick sanding after they dried.  It is important to note that I made the doors slightly oversize of the openings they were going into so I could trim them to final size to fit.

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The doors for the potato bin are pretty straightforward to install using face mounted hinges.  And fortunately for me our potato bin is going to be painted so I can putty two small errors that I made.  The first you can see in the photo below that resulted when I was building the carcass and I skewed the board a smidge as I was cutting one of the dadoes in the side.  The second error you will see in later photos when I wasn’t paying attention to where I was laying out the last hinge and put it too close to the side and lining it up with the hinges on the first two doors.  Luckily for me a little putty and you will never know after it is painted.

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My method of installing the doors was pretty simple.  First I install the hinges on the carcass, make sure you pay attention so you hinges line up…  Second, I install the magnetic catch to the top of the opening for each door.  Third, I take a couple scrap pieces of wood that are 3/4” shorter than the depth of the carcass opening.  These will temporarily hold the door while I center the door in the opening crating a uniform gap around all sides of the door.

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When I get everything lined up perfectly I can flip the hinges over and fasten them into place with screws.

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With the door in place and hinges secured all that is left to do is layout and drill the holes for the pull.

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With everything back together it was time to bring the potato & onion bin back inside to see how it works with it’s surroundings.  Next up – a design meeting and discussion about the top.

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March 1, 2015 Posted by | Woodworking | , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Potato & Onion Bin – Part 1

 

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Potato & Onion Project

 

So Wen put her order in for a potato, onion, and garlic bin from the wood shop.  Using Pinterest she found some inspiration from a Pin linking back to Ana Whites website, and after a few design review meeting I had my marching orders.  We decided on making 3 bins, and figured the opening for each of the bins should be 10” high by 16” wide inside dimensions and the depth of the carcass would be the width of a 1×12 piece of pine minus a 1/2” plywood back.

I started off with the cabinet carcass and took some 1×12 pine from the big box store and set up my stacked dado head cutter to cut some dados after adjusting for the depth on a piece of scrap.  I was lazy and kept all dados 3/4” wide for the shelves and the back panel.    For a little extra flair and to create faux legs I notched out the bottom of the 1×12’s.

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All the

Glue up was pretty easy after dry-fitting all the pieces together on the workbench.  With everything clamped up I double checked my measurements on the 1/2” thick plywood back panel and cut it to size.

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All of the pieces cut to size and the inside faces sanded prior to glue up below.  I glued all the 1×12 pieces together and clamped the carcass together.  After clamping I laid the carcass face down slid the plywood back in positions and squared up the cabinet and tightened down the clamps.  I screwed the back on so I could removed it later to make painting easier and I shot a few brads into the shelves from the sides for good measure.

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We moved the cabinet into it’s home to test drive the proportions and I think we nailed it.

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Potato & Onion Project

 

Up next some pre-planning on the ventilated doors, wood frame size, and a mesh that has a little more pop then chicken wire or hardware cloth…

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February 21, 2015 Posted by | Woodworking | , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Greenhouse – Part 2

Greenhouse

Still waiting for the cold weather and snowy pattern we are in to break here in New Hampshire.  I was able to successfully disassemble the greenhouse and move it outside pretty easily with the help of Wen and the boys.  Reassembly of the greenhouse was straight forward.  With the frame complete I needed to add some strapping for my corrugated roof panels because I will be installing the roof panels with the flutes running vertically on the gambrel roof.  This design change will help the gambrel roof shed snow up here in the great white tundra much easier than if the flutes were running horizontally.  So I installed some 1×3 strapping perpendicular to the roof trusses two foot on center that would pick up the closure pieces for my roof panels.

Installing greenhouse strapping

With the strapping in place I needed my trusty assistant to help pass me the plastic closure strips that would attach directly to the strapping. These plastic pieces get screwed down and fill in the voids between the panels and the strapping.

Greenhouse closure strips

It’s always good to have a second set of hands to help hold things in place and after all the greenhouse is like a mini jungle-Jim now.  I ran out of short screws so I had to resort to using some 1-1/4” drywall screws that started to poke through the strapping.  I will need to come along with a saws-all after the panels go up and trim off these pointy screws so I don’t wind up with any greenhouse injuries this spring.

Installing Greenhouse Closure Strips

A close up below of the plastic closure pieces as I installed them on the strapping. Not sure if you need to put a screw in every flute but I figured I better so I would limit my chances of having a panel blow off in high winds.  I also plan on using corrugated roofing crews long enough to penetrate though the plastic closure strip and into the wood strapping itself.

Plastic greenhouse closure strips

We had to mock-up at least one plastic panel on the side and they seem to go up pretty quickly.  I just need to cut the roof panels to the appropriate length and away we go.

Plastic Greenhouse Panels

Thinking of spring…

Thinking of spring

February 16, 2015 Posted by | Gardening, Home Maintenance, Woodworking | , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Greenhouse – Part 1

Greenhouse

Finally have an opportunity to sit down and write a few words.  Despite the continuous snow fall that we seem to be getting lately, I am thinking spring. Inspired by searching for greenhouses on Pinterest I came across a greenhouse design PIN that we think would work for us from the Ana-white.com website I tweaked the design, a smidge as I always seem to do and started the build a couple of weekends ago.  I ended up building it in the garage because it was hovering right around 0-degrees outside without wind chill at the time.

We decided to go 10’ x 10’ in size and figured we would use clear plastic panels to skin the whole outside.  We are in a heavily wooded area so we are hoping that this will help get us to an early start this growing season before all the trees leaf out.

I ended up building this by myself in one weekend, and because I was building inside, I had to build it so it could be knocked down, moved out of the garage and assembled outside.  The side walls are each their own components.  The front and rear end walls are also their own components.  Lastly the (4) roof trusses and ridge are one component.  Anything that was not being disassembled was nailed, and any connection points that I was going to need to disassemble was put together with screws.

I started construction with the knee wall.  I used a 2×4 PT sill plate and KD SPF 2×4 top plate and 2×4 studs 24” o.c. to build the knee walls.  I threw and extra 2×4 in at the corners so I could easily screw in the front & rear walls to the sides walls.

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Next I built the end walls.  The first thing I did was to make the rafter gussets.  The Ana-white website has a great video of how to this, which saved me from having to figure it out.

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Essentially using a piece of blue tape and a couple quick marks on my chop saw you can mark the point where you make your 22.5-degree angle cuts and where you make your 90-degree cross cuts.  This made for quick work of cutting out the dozen or so plywood gussets I needed for the trusses.

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With all the gussets cut, I cut a total of 8 rafters 48” long with 22.5-degree angles on both ends.  These are for the end walls.  It easy to make a quick jig for cutting your rafters to length as well.  With the rafters cut, I glued the but joint where they meet and clamped them to my work table.  I then applied a liberal amount of glue to the face of the rafters getting the plywood gusset plate, and clamped it down.  Eight screw later and I was good to go.  Just make sure you thing about the orientation of the gussets prior to assembly on your greenhouse.  I wanted all gussets facing inside the greenhouse, so they would cause a problem when I side the outside face of the greenhouse walls.

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Three gusset plates and four 48” roof rafters and I had the end wall roof rafter ready to go in place.  I had to add a couple more 2×4’s to keep the end wall rigid when I go to move it outside.  Rinse and repeat for the opposite end and away you go.

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I got both end walls up and stopped for the night.  The next day I set the ridge up and and made the rest of my rafters up and installed them.  I don’t have many photos but it’s pretty easy to figure out.  Just make sure you do the math on the lengths of your pieces so everything will work.  I deviated from the Ana-white plans on the framing so some of my dimensions were slightly different.  This goes up quick and is an easy build just take your time.

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February 8, 2015 Posted by | Gardening, Home Maintenance, Woodworking | , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Drawers for the Miter Stand, Part Two

Miter Saw Stand

Well, last Sunday I got some time to finish up the drawers for my Miter Saw sand.  Since it was a balmy 32F, a welcome change from the single digits we have had, I opened the garage door and let in some natural light.  Last I left off I had ripped all the drawer sides to width and ran all the dado’s and rabbets needed for the two drawer boxes.  on the back of each drawer I ripped the board just above where I made the dado as you can see in the photo below.  I glued all the rabbets and clamped the drawer boxes on my out feed table.  Once everything was clamped and square I tacked everything together with some 1” brads.

Back of Drawer

Just another shot of the dado’s coming together at the front of the drawer below.

Drawer Bottom Dado

With the boxes nailed together I took a measurement and ripped the plywood bottoms. The drawer bottoms dropped right into the dado and from the photo below you can see why I ripped the dado of the back of the drawer boxes.  The bottom will float freely in the dado, and just be attached to the back of the drawer with a couple screws.

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Prior to screwing the drawer bottom to the back of the drawer, I clamp my speed square onto the back corner of the box to help keep everything square while I drive the screws home.

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With the drawers done its time to mount the drawer slides.  Basically following the instructions.  I saw on a you tube video the other day a neat trick to mounting the slides and figured I would give it a try.  Basically you use a couple spacer blocks.  In my case I have two 1/4” thick pieces of masonite.  First you lay the two pieces of masonite on your frame.

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The masonite will support the drawer slide 1/2” off the frame.  I found it was easier to clamp the drawer slide in place prior to screwing it to the box.  Once your first screw is in place, you can remove the clamp and add the other two screws for this slide and then repeat for the other side.

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With both slides screwed in place you take and put only one piece of masonite under each drawer slide.  These will acts as 1/4” spacers keeping your drawer up off the frame.

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Then you pull the drawer into the opening and pull both the drawer and slides out far enough so you can access the first set of screw holes.  I found clamping the drawer slides in place helped to keep everything from shifting as I was driving screws into the slides.  Once you put your first screw in both sides you can then remove the clamp and slide the drawer out to the next set of screw holes, and so on.  This was actually much easier than I thought it would be.

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I slapped on a couple drawer pulls, which were much more classier than my miter stand, and through some particle board below on the bottom of the stand to act as a shelf for some other tools and I was on may way.  I left my options open if I want to dress it up further with some pine trim and drawer fronts, but we will need to wait and see.

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January 7, 2014 Posted by | Woodworking | , , , , | 2 Comments

Drawers for the Miter Saw Stand

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Since I am in between projects and I still had some scrap wood and hardware from  leftover projects I figured I would put around the garage this weekend and spend some more time on my shop fixtures and cabinets.

I had a big open space below the miter saw stand that I threw together in one of my previous posts and I wasn’t sure what to do with it until now.  I decided on two side by side drawers with an open space below that will house an old plastic recycling bin that I will use for small pieces of scrap and cut-offs.  First off this project is not meant to be pretty, more like a practical, Frankenstein of functionality.  That being said I had to set about installing a basic framework that could support the sliding rails for the drawers.  Since this hasn’t been planned ahead of time, and the miter saw is currently in use I am field modifying this cabinet which is a little bit of a pain, working on the ground.

The first step was to cut a piece of 2x blocking that I had screwed a 1/2” plywood divider two.  The 2x blocking is then screwed to the underside of the counter top.

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As you can see below this divider, provides two equal sections for my new drawers and will provide supports for the drawer rails.  I am going with 7” high drawers which will give me a 6” deep drawer on the inside after I put in a 1/2” thick plywood bottom.  That means the height of my divider that I am using is 7-3/4” high.  This will hope fully give me a 1/4” clearance from the bottom of the drawer and 1/2” clearance from the top of the drawer.

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The next step was to attached a stretcher piece or plywood rail at the front and back of the drawer openings.  These rails are about 3” wide pieces of plywood will laterally support the middle divider.  They will also provide a reference point for installation of the drawer slides.

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The rear rail can be seen well in the photo below.

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With the openings complete I could not take some final measurements and get to work on the drawers.  I have some full extension heavy duty 16” drawer slides that I was going to use for a project that never materialized, so I figured I would put them to use here.  The slides tell you what width to make your drawer  based on the opening you are working with.  For example my slides call for a drawer width that is 1-1/16” less that the drawer opening.  I have 13-1/4” wide openings so my drawers will be 12-3/16” wide.  The length of the slide is 16” but I am going to make the drawers slightly longer, because I have room in the cabinet, so my drawers will be 18” long.  With all of the sizes determined and the 1/2” plywood I will be using ripped to 7” wide and cut to length I switched out my standard saw blade for my dado set.

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I will be rabbeting the drawer sides and either gluing and nailing or gluing and screwing the sides to the fronts.  I will be cutting a 1/4” deep by 1/2” wide rabbet in the sides.  I ran a few test pieces to get the depth and the with set perfectly before running the drawer sides through.

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With all the rabbets run, it was now time to reset the saw to run a dado for the drawer bottoms.  I wanted heavier duty drawers so I decided to use 1/2” plywood for the drawer bottoms.  This also saves me having to reset the dado stack for a different thickness drawer bottom.  I kept the depth of the dado at 1/4” and simply adjusted the fence so that the dado would be about 1/2” from the bottom of the drawer sides. Because I am using slightly weathered scrap plywood I noticed the plywood was a little bigger than the dado I cut.  To get the plywood bottoms to fit, I simply adjusted the fence a smidge until I could easily slip a piece of plywood into the dado with no issues.

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After repeating the process for all eight drawer pieces I did a little mock-up to see how close I came to my drawer width of 12-3/16” and I was right on.  Now o decide on screws or brads to join the drawer sides to the fronts and backs…

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January 5, 2014 Posted by | Woodworking | , , , | 2 Comments

Quilting Table – 2.0

Part two of the quilting table saga.  In order to get a better fit of the quilting table I needed to taper part of the plywood top that was towards the back rear of the sewing machine.  Doing this meant a little bit of hand tool work.  I stood the piece vertically in my vise and with a hand saw, yes I did say handsaw, I cut the angled portion of the cut.  I then cleaned up the cut with some chisels and some sand paper.  It only took me one trip up to the sewing room to test fit my handiwork before I had a tight fit.

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After test fitting the table top and making sure the top would sit flush it was time to focus on the legs.

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During my last trip to the home center I had picked up some adjustable glide feet that I thought would be perfect for the final adjustments I would need to level the top in place.  I also had some left over 5/4 pine that would also be beefy enough to support the table top, provide a little weight to the top, and at 1-1/8” wide would provide a little more gluing area for attaching the legs to the top.

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With an idea of how long each leg needed to be plus how tall each leg needed to be it was easy to rip them to width and cut them to length.  Per the instructions on the glides I drilled a hole for each glide that was 23/64” in diameter and 1-1/8” deep.

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With the holes drilled the white portion of glides tap into the wood until they are seated.

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Below is one of the legs with the glides installed.

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I failed to take photos of the installation of the legs but basically each leg was glued and screwed from below up into the top.  I wanted take the easy way out and screw or nail from the table top down into the legs, but this would have not looked as clean on the top, so I decided to pass.  Fastening from the top down would have also been much stronger that fastening from below, but I had my marching orders.  Below is the quilting table with legs and adjustable feet installed.

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A couple more photos from the front, notice I had to to a little notching by the bobbin holder so the little trap door could slide out to change the bobbins.  Nothing a little 80-grit sand paper could not take care of.

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A shot from behind, that shows where I had to taper the plywood in the back for the tighter fit.

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Just another angle.

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Now off to finish with some poly and hopefully just a light buffing with some steel wool.

December 28, 2013 Posted by | Woodworking | , , , , , | 2 Comments

Painting Frames

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In addition to the many other holiday tasks on the agenda my brother had asked if I could crank out some picture frames for some paintings that he was going to be giving as Christmas gifts this season.  With a basic idea of what works and a blank canvas that he had given me I set out to mass produce a couple frames out of pine and one out of some cherry that I had laying around.

The frame profile was pretty generic, I simply copied a store bought picture frame in the house.  I used some 1×4 pine that I ripped down to 1-1/2” widths.  I chose the wider pine because I could buy clearer lengths with fewer knots and imperfections.  It takes a little less than 8’-0” of frame materials to make one frame so approximately two 16” x20 paintings can be made from one 1x4x 8’-0” long.  One 8’ eastern white pine 1×4 at my local home center runs $5.83, so for $3 dollars worth of wood you can frame up a painting pretty economically.

From the photo below you can see the profile of the frame.  All I did was take a 1/4” by 1-1/4” rabbet out of the frame.  I did this because I noticed a fair amount of variance in the canvases that my brother had, so this 1/4” deep rabbet would allow me to oversize the picture frames and allow some play (~1/8”) within the frame itself.  I also felt that this basic frame did not detract from real focal point which is the artwork itself.

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After milling up four 8’ lengths of picture frame material to the profile above, I then took my time to make one picture frame which I would use as a template for the other three frames.  I cut each piece of the frame to length with miter joints and assembled the frame dry in my band clamp.  This allowed me to confirm that the canvas would indeed fit within the frame with about an 1/8” of play in all directions.

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It’s a little hard to tell in the photo below, but there is a little more than a 1/16” gap all the way around the inside of the frame.

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With the canvas loosely laid in the frame I marked the top of the canvas and cut some slots with my biscuit cutter.  These slots are going to be used for some with some metal clips to mount the canvas to the frame.

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Below is the only photo I had of the clips, but you could really use anything to secure the painting to the frame.  I happened to have a whole bunch of these leftover clips from the raised panels I salvaged awhile back so I decided to re-purpose them.

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With the frames complete it was time to sand and finish them.

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Black and natural were the finishes selected.  The artist decided that black suited his deconstructed lobster best.

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We went with a slightly darker Poly shades stain on the cherry frame which gave it a richer brown color, and hit it with a little Johnson Paste wax.

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Finally my brother surprised me with a painting of our very own, the wife thinks it would make the best blueprint of a future sugar shack.  The painting was complete with “Little Creek Maple Farm” at the front entry and on one of the sap buckets.

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I can’t wait to see what my brother paints next!

December 27, 2013 Posted by | Woodworking | , , , , , | 2 Comments

Quilting Table – 1.0

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For those of you wondering what a quilting table is, it’s basically an in-feed/out-feed table like you would see with a table saw but smaller, less manly, and scaled down for a sewing machine.  There are commercially made plastic one, but my client, wants a wood one, hand made by her own wood shop.  As with all of her projects I request a plan/drawing, prior to start of fabrication.  Basically the orange is the sewing machine in plan view and the green is the quilting table.  The size of the table will be 18” x 22” and this will fit snug against the sewing machine “free arm”.  The sewing machine “free arm” or bed as I am going to call it is only about 3-1/2” by 11”, which is tiny in woodworking standards.

The first thing I did was take a large piece of paper and trace a paper template of the sewing machine bed.  Since the quilting table needs to be fairly snug up against the machine a template would help get me pretty close to the final size.

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With the paper template of the sewing bed cut out I decided to make one more template out of 1/4” hardboard.  The hardboard is easier to work with than the 1/2” birch plywood top Wen had chosen for her quilting table and it is easier to fine tune with a coarse file to get the exacting dimensions I am looking for.  Another bonus is that I can then use the hardboard as a pattern/template that I can attach to my plywood and use a router with a flush bit to get an exact copy.

Step #1

I cut a piece of 1/4” hardboard to 18” x 22” per the pre-approved plan.  Next I laid out 3 lines, one 9” from the left side, one 6” from the front, and one 6” from the back.  These layout lines gave me a nice rectangle on which to locate the paper template of the sewing machine bed.  After a brief consultation with the boss it was decided to locate the front of the bed 6” from the front edge of the hardboard.  I held the paper template in place and traced the outline by hand.

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Step #2

With the outline complete, I cut out the sewing bed area with a handheld jig saw.  as you can see below I purposely stayed 1/16” away from the pencil line.  this is so I could fine tune the pattern with a coarse file.

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Wen also decided that the quilting table should have rounded corners so I took a small can of stain and traced around it at the four corners of the table.

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Step #3

After filing the hardboard to the pencil line I had laid out it was up to the sewing machine to check fit. The fit needed to be snug so I erred on the side of caution figuring it was easier to file more material away for a perfect fit, rather that having to add material.

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It’s hard to tell from the photo above, but the first pass was almost a perfect fit.  The hardboard template was a little tight at the back curve and a little tight in the front.  Back down to the garage for some fine tuning with the file.

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Once again, hard to see, but this time we had a perfect fit.

Step #4

There were some slight changes to the design of the quilting table so I am glad we mocked it up with hardboard first.  The plywood below is 18”x22”, and after we test fit the hardboard to the sewing machine we discovered the front of the quilting table was protruding a little too much, so with a quick pass at the table saw we took off a couple inches. You can see below that the plywood is oversized partially for the design change but I wanted it oversized so I could screw the template on and have plenty of room to run the router around and get a perfect fit.  I used some 3/4” wood screws with finish washers to attached the hardboard template to the underside of the quilting platform.

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I then took a jig saw and cut 3/8” of an inch away from the edge of the hardboard.  I did this because the plywood tend to want to chip and splinter when using a jig saw.  The goal here was to remove the bulk of the material so I could come in afterwards with my router and a flush cut bit to finish up.

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Above you will see a slight design change, which is too hard to explain, but was needed.  So below I added a piece of hardboard to allow me to run my router right up to the desired dimension.

Quilting Table Pattern

I turned the piece over ran my router around the quilting table top and had an instant copy of my hardboard template.

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Step #5

The last step for today was to to a round over to help prevent fabric materials from catching while the boss is sewing.  I mocked up two round overs to make sure the boss could pick the correct one.  Keep in mind that this edge will be sanded smooth and coated with poly so this rougher plywood edge should smooth right out with a little putty and sanding.

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The quilting table edge below.

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The quilting table top 95% complete.  I just need to remove the hardboard backer, do some final fitting, and then its off to build some adjustable legs.

Quilting Table

December 26, 2013 Posted by | Woodworking | , , , , , | 2 Comments

Headboard 7.0 – The Top Shelf

It’s funny how time just seems to disappear during the summer months, even with the longer days.  I finally had a weekend to catch up on some wood working.  I built two small 4’-0” wide T-frames for the raspberries, which despite not having many berries this year, have put up some serious canes that I would dare say are 6’-0” tall!

I also had time to disassemble one of my potato box frames and re-work it to fit on top of the asparagus bed.  The bed I put my asparagus in was woefully shallow, and I have read that asparagus need to be buried deep, so this 2×12 box will add some much needed depth.  The asparagus is tall!  I have some that are close to 3’-0” high and all bushed or “ferned out…

With some of the chores out of the way I made room for the real task which was finishing the fabrication of the top shelf of the headboard, that I made and actually moved upstairs to the bedroom.

Due to the width and length of the top shelf and the real shoddy selection of pine at Lowe’s, I decided to build my top shelf with a hybrid design using some 1/2” plywood and a couple 1×4’s that I picked up a couple weeks ago.  Now because the plywood is 1/2” thick and the trim is 3/4” thick I needed to gut a rabbet to accept the plywood.  The shelf is 96” long by 11-7/8” wide which just gives me a solid 1/8” over hang on the bottom of the top shelf before the detailed edge begins.

Headboard - Rabbeted Trim

The first step was to rip a groove that is about 3/4” of an inch high and just a smidge deeper than a 1/2” on the table saw.  I learned the hard way when doing my Cornhole Boards that I would much rather have the 1/2” plywood sit a little lower that the 1x trim, because sanding the trim flush to the plywood would is so much easier!  After I ran the front trim board that was 96” long through the saw, I followed up with the two side pieces which I left long at 12”.

Now it was time for the second cut on the table saw, which creates the nice rabbet pictured above.  The idea is to set the saw up once and run all your pieces through before resetting the saw.

Headboard - Clamping TrimHeadboard - Round Over Bit

Moving outside, because it was such a beautiful morning, I clamped down my trim pieces in preparation for routing!  As you can see in the photo above I have a simple round over bit that will create the profile that the boss wants!

Headboard - Round over 1st passHeadboard - Round over 2nd pass

I would make one pass where there were no clamps, stop, reset the clamps and finish the edge.  Man I need to make a router table!

Headboard - Top Shelf Trim Profile

I flipped the stock over so you can get an idea of what we are doing.  In the photo above the trim is oriented how it would sit on top of the headboard.  The 1/2” plywood would then rest on top of the rabbet to the right, and the profile on the left would overhang the headboard edge.

Headboard - Top Shelf Miters

With the trim milled, I simply cut the 45-degree miters, glued and clamped the joints and trimmed the 1/2” plywood to fit the top shelf.  I left out a few steps to get to the picture above, but if you have been following along I don’t need to bore you with the details.  I did slap on some wood filler and knock it down with some 15-grit sand paper before bringing it up stairs for a mock-up.

Headboard - Top Shelf Mock-up

The profile is consistent with the other trim on the piece, slightly boring, but I think is works.  Without the router table I was limited on what router bits that I had that I could use for a profile.  I was playing this one cheap and not trying to buy a new tool to finish the project.

Headboard - Top Shelf Profile

Some primer, paint, and some grommets, and I think we will be in business.

August 25, 2013 Posted by | Woodworking | , , , , | 1 Comment

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