Little Creek Maple Farm

Our adventures around the homestead.

Potato & Onion Bin – Part 2

Part two of the Potato & Onion Bin Project, focuses on the doors and getting them installed, you can read about Part 1 here which focuses on the construction of the carcass of the potato & onion bin.

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With the size of the doors roughed out on scrap paper and some quick math to figure out the size of the wood door frames I was ready to start cutting some pine boards to width.  I set my table saw to 2-1/2” wide and ripped the stiles and rails for the doors.  After ripping the stock to width, I switched out my regular saw blade for the stacked dado set.  I used to blades for a 1/4” width.  I set the saw up to be centered in the middle of the 3/4” wide stock I was using and set the depth to 1/4” and created the dadoes in my door frame stock.

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A after cutting everything to length and creating some tongues on the short stile that would fit in the dado of the rails I did some dry fitting of the door assembly and notice my tin fronts where just a little too long and too tall.

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So I had to grab my metal shears and trim off some of the excess metal panel.

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That this was a pretty cool shot of the excess trimmings below…

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With everything fitting nicely after trimming the tin panels down to size I glued the doors together and gave them a quick sanding after they dried.  It is important to note that I made the doors slightly oversize of the openings they were going into so I could trim them to final size to fit.

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The doors for the potato bin are pretty straightforward to install using face mounted hinges.  And fortunately for me our potato bin is going to be painted so I can putty two small errors that I made.  The first you can see in the photo below that resulted when I was building the carcass and I skewed the board a smidge as I was cutting one of the dadoes in the side.  The second error you will see in later photos when I wasn’t paying attention to where I was laying out the last hinge and put it too close to the side and lining it up with the hinges on the first two doors.  Luckily for me a little putty and you will never know after it is painted.

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My method of installing the doors was pretty simple.  First I install the hinges on the carcass, make sure you pay attention so you hinges line up…  Second, I install the magnetic catch to the top of the opening for each door.  Third, I take a couple scrap pieces of wood that are 3/4” shorter than the depth of the carcass opening.  These will temporarily hold the door while I center the door in the opening crating a uniform gap around all sides of the door.

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When I get everything lined up perfectly I can flip the hinges over and fasten them into place with screws.

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With the door in place and hinges secured all that is left to do is layout and drill the holes for the pull.

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With everything back together it was time to bring the potato & onion bin back inside to see how it works with it’s surroundings.  Next up – a design meeting and discussion about the top.

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March 1, 2015 Posted by | Woodworking | , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Greenhouse – Part 2

Greenhouse

Still waiting for the cold weather and snowy pattern we are in to break here in New Hampshire.  I was able to successfully disassemble the greenhouse and move it outside pretty easily with the help of Wen and the boys.  Reassembly of the greenhouse was straight forward.  With the frame complete I needed to add some strapping for my corrugated roof panels because I will be installing the roof panels with the flutes running vertically on the gambrel roof.  This design change will help the gambrel roof shed snow up here in the great white tundra much easier than if the flutes were running horizontally.  So I installed some 1×3 strapping perpendicular to the roof trusses two foot on center that would pick up the closure pieces for my roof panels.

Installing greenhouse strapping

With the strapping in place I needed my trusty assistant to help pass me the plastic closure strips that would attach directly to the strapping. These plastic pieces get screwed down and fill in the voids between the panels and the strapping.

Greenhouse closure strips

It’s always good to have a second set of hands to help hold things in place and after all the greenhouse is like a mini jungle-Jim now.  I ran out of short screws so I had to resort to using some 1-1/4” drywall screws that started to poke through the strapping.  I will need to come along with a saws-all after the panels go up and trim off these pointy screws so I don’t wind up with any greenhouse injuries this spring.

Installing Greenhouse Closure Strips

A close up below of the plastic closure pieces as I installed them on the strapping. Not sure if you need to put a screw in every flute but I figured I better so I would limit my chances of having a panel blow off in high winds.  I also plan on using corrugated roofing crews long enough to penetrate though the plastic closure strip and into the wood strapping itself.

Plastic greenhouse closure strips

We had to mock-up at least one plastic panel on the side and they seem to go up pretty quickly.  I just need to cut the roof panels to the appropriate length and away we go.

Plastic Greenhouse Panels

Thinking of spring…

Thinking of spring

February 16, 2015 Posted by | Gardening, Home Maintenance, Woodworking | , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Greenhouse – Part 1

Greenhouse

Finally have an opportunity to sit down and write a few words.  Despite the continuous snow fall that we seem to be getting lately, I am thinking spring. Inspired by searching for greenhouses on Pinterest I came across a greenhouse design PIN that we think would work for us from the Ana-white.com website I tweaked the design, a smidge as I always seem to do and started the build a couple of weekends ago.  I ended up building it in the garage because it was hovering right around 0-degrees outside without wind chill at the time.

We decided to go 10’ x 10’ in size and figured we would use clear plastic panels to skin the whole outside.  We are in a heavily wooded area so we are hoping that this will help get us to an early start this growing season before all the trees leaf out.

I ended up building this by myself in one weekend, and because I was building inside, I had to build it so it could be knocked down, moved out of the garage and assembled outside.  The side walls are each their own components.  The front and rear end walls are also their own components.  Lastly the (4) roof trusses and ridge are one component.  Anything that was not being disassembled was nailed, and any connection points that I was going to need to disassemble was put together with screws.

I started construction with the knee wall.  I used a 2×4 PT sill plate and KD SPF 2×4 top plate and 2×4 studs 24” o.c. to build the knee walls.  I threw and extra 2×4 in at the corners so I could easily screw in the front & rear walls to the sides walls.

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Next I built the end walls.  The first thing I did was to make the rafter gussets.  The Ana-white website has a great video of how to this, which saved me from having to figure it out.

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Essentially using a piece of blue tape and a couple quick marks on my chop saw you can mark the point where you make your 22.5-degree angle cuts and where you make your 90-degree cross cuts.  This made for quick work of cutting out the dozen or so plywood gussets I needed for the trusses.

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With all the gussets cut, I cut a total of 8 rafters 48” long with 22.5-degree angles on both ends.  These are for the end walls.  It easy to make a quick jig for cutting your rafters to length as well.  With the rafters cut, I glued the but joint where they meet and clamped them to my work table.  I then applied a liberal amount of glue to the face of the rafters getting the plywood gusset plate, and clamped it down.  Eight screw later and I was good to go.  Just make sure you thing about the orientation of the gussets prior to assembly on your greenhouse.  I wanted all gussets facing inside the greenhouse, so they would cause a problem when I side the outside face of the greenhouse walls.

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Three gusset plates and four 48” roof rafters and I had the end wall roof rafter ready to go in place.  I had to add a couple more 2×4’s to keep the end wall rigid when I go to move it outside.  Rinse and repeat for the opposite end and away you go.

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I got both end walls up and stopped for the night.  The next day I set the ridge up and and made the rest of my rafters up and installed them.  I don’t have many photos but it’s pretty easy to figure out.  Just make sure you do the math on the lengths of your pieces so everything will work.  I deviated from the Ana-white plans on the framing so some of my dimensions were slightly different.  This goes up quick and is an easy build just take your time.

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February 8, 2015 Posted by | Gardening, Home Maintenance, Woodworking | , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Garage Work Shop Storage – Drawers

Base Cabinets with Drawers

I went with a slightly different drawer box assembly technique on this set of drawers.  Not sure of the exact name of this joint it’s a combination of a dado in the side of the drawers and a rabbet in the front.  This joint will provide more glue surface area and should hopefully be stronger than a rabbet joint alone with glue and nails that I used on the Miter Saw Stand.  I was using up some scrap 1/2” plywood for these boxes so I had some variations that made perfect set-up of the dado and rabbet a little challenging so I opted to get close knowing that I may need to knock down the sides that protrude beyond the fronts with a sander and some 60-grit paper.  The drawers have the same 1/4” dado in the bottom to accept some 1/4” hardboard for the drawer bottoms.

Lock RabbetAssembled Drawers

The technique for installing drawer slides is straight forward.  The slides were installed in the cabinets in my earlier post using a piece of 1/2” plywood as a spacer.  Now that I am ready to install the drawers, I switched over to a 1/4” thick piece of hardboard.  This will space the drawer perfectly when I go to attach the drawer to the slides.  A quick pencil mark to account for the added thickness of the solid wood edging and I was ready to attach the slides to the drawer slides.

Drawer 1/4" thick spacersAttaching Drawer Slides to Drawers

Repeat the process four times and the drawers are installed.  If I can sneak it in, I will try and finish the drawer fronts and cabinets doors, but I may be switching gears for sugaring, soon.

Finished Drawers

February 18, 2014 Posted by | Woodworking | , , , , | 2 Comments

Garage Work Shop Storage – Counter Tops!

Miter Station Base Cabinets

Saturday I tackled some solid wood edging on the base cabinets and today focused on getting some counter tops on the cabinets.  I wanted some smooth, that was replaceable if damaged, and cheap.  Now this counter is pretty impractical in its use of materials, but I was looking to add height and use up some materials.

I started with a 2×4 frame, this would give some thickness I needed as well as stiffen up the cabinets.  No frills here, just some biscuits, glue and clamping.

2x4 With Biscuits

The completed frame below really stiffened up the cabinets after it was screwed down to them.

2x4 Counter Top Frame

I had some left over 3/4” particleboard that I used as the sub top.  I really wanted something to add some wait to this assembly and 3/4” thick particleboard was the answer.  I installed the first piece flush to the outside edge and overhang the front and the left side on purpose.  I came along after and the particle board was screwed down and hit it with a flush trimming router bit.

Particle Board Sub TopParticle Board Sub Top

Below is a good shot of the counter top assembly showing the 2×4 frame, the 3/4” particle board, and the 1/4” hardboard top.  Once again, I screwed down the hardboard leaving it to overhang the particle board so I could come along after with my flush cut bit in my router.

Chop Saw Counter Top

Now my garage floor was so out of level in this area that I ended up shimming the cabinets a lot more than I would have thought to get my cabinets level.  as a result I needed a little more height on my chop saw.  I insert a couple of plywood strips and fine tuned the adjustment with these handy metal shims I picked up at Harbor Freight Last year when I was leveling my evaporator.

Metal Shims on Chop Saw

This was probably the best $5-$10 bucks I have spent at Harbor Freight and I probably got 20% off too!  I have used these quite a bit since I found them.

Harbor Freight Shim Pack

The whole assembly leveled and in place, next up some drawer boxes for the cabinets, followed by some finished poplar drawer fronts and doors.

Miter Saw Station

February 17, 2014 Posted by | Woodworking | , , , , , | 2 Comments

Garage Work Shop Storage – New Age French Cleats

I have been busy in the garage the last two weekends.  Now that the wife and I have decided that the “Little Creek Woodshop” is officially in my half of the garage its time to get organized and make the most efficient use of my limited space.  Now once everything is organized I will be able to turnaround the wife’s woodworking projects in a much more timely manner.  The current wood shop projects are a French cleat style system to hang various fastener bins, clamps, and other wood working tools and some base cabinets and counter tops that in can slide my mobile miter saw cabinet into.  Now this was something that I discovered on Pinterest and the original Pin can be found here.  If you are not into the whole Pinterest thing, you can find the blog article on the American Woodworker Blog about Hyper-organizing your workshop.  Below are some draft sketches I have been working off of.

New French Cleat SketchBase Cabinet Sketch

First up the cleats.  I had picked up a four sheets of 3/4” poplar veneered plywood that my home center had for a reasonable price.  I have also never seen poplar as a face veneer at the box stores.  Typically they carry B/C pine/fir or birch, maple, and oak for something a little nicer grade.  Nonetheless four sheets of 3/4” plywood and one sheet of 1/4” plywood.  The cleats are straight forward I ripped the sheets crosswise with a circular saw and a fence so I had two sheets 25” wide by 48” long.  These are much easier to handle by yourself on the table saw.  I set the table saw fence to 3” and proceeded to rip eight lengths of 3” plywood strips 48” long.

Plywood Strips

As you can see below I tried to be cool and I made sure numbered each one in the order I cut it off the sheet.  While looking good in principle, once these cleats are spread out on the wall 6” apart you don’t get the same effect, and not to mention the idea here is that they will be covered up with shop storage items.  I will be using this technique when I cut the drawers and doors for my base cabinets though.

Poplar Plywood Grain Layout

One other thing that I did was to chamfer the top edges of the 3” wide plywood strips, you can see this in a later photo.  This was on the American woodworker blog so I did the same.  I am guessing it allows an easier time for hanging things on the cleats.  I followed the same steps above for cutting the 1/4” sheet of plywood only this time I rip the 48” strips 2” wide and there is no need to chamfer anything.  As you can see below, I laid the 2” wide strips on the 3” wide plywood and made a quick pencil line so I knew where to glue.

French Cleat AssemblyFrench Cleat Assembly

I used 5/8”, 18 gauge brads to tack the 1/4” plywood strips onto the 3/4” plywood strips while the glue dries.

Craftsman 18 gauge brad nailer

The finished cleat below prior to mounting on the wall.

American Woodworker French Cleat

I predrilled all of the cleats at 16” on center, located the wood studs in my wall and marked them vertically with a pencil line.  I than measured up the wall for my first cleat which I started approximately 36” up the wall.  With this first mark I used a 4’ level to run a level pencil line across the wall.  I put one screw in and attached the cleat to the wall.  I then put the level on top of the cleat to re-check that it was level prior to driving home the second screw.  With the first cleat installed I made a three spacer templates out of 1/4” hardboard. Each one is 6” high, no real science behind the dimension and the American woodworker blog doesn’t give a spacing dimension so I just chose something that would give be plenty of room to slip on the things I will be hanging on the wall.

French Cleat On Wall

With the three spacers on the lower cleat, it makes it a breeze to attach each additional wall cleat.  You just need to make sure the first cleat is level and you should be good.  Being a perfectionist, I still checked with my level as I went.

French Cleat On Wall

Now it was time to see how well this system works.  I had a couple of these cheap plastic fastener cabinets so I ripped a couple 3/4” strips 3” wide, and this time the 1/4” strips were 4” wide.  I glued them together and tacked them with some brads.  I marked the holes for the cabinet mounting screws and made sure everything was snug.

Fastener CabinetFastener Cabinet

With the wood cleat on the back of the plastic cabinet I took the whole thing over to the wall and hung it up.

French Cleat Installed on WallFrench Cleat Installed on Wall

As you can see below I started to hang some items and the cleats held really well.  The cabinets were loaded with fasteners so they are not light.  Now as time and material allows I will add more items to the cleats.  Next up some base cabinets  and re-working one of my existing shelving walls to accommodate those cabinets.

Fastener Storage Cabinets

February 9, 2014 Posted by | Woodworking | , , , , | 7 Comments

Drawers for the Miter Stand, Part Two

Miter Saw Stand

Well, last Sunday I got some time to finish up the drawers for my Miter Saw sand.  Since it was a balmy 32F, a welcome change from the single digits we have had, I opened the garage door and let in some natural light.  Last I left off I had ripped all the drawer sides to width and ran all the dado’s and rabbets needed for the two drawer boxes.  on the back of each drawer I ripped the board just above where I made the dado as you can see in the photo below.  I glued all the rabbets and clamped the drawer boxes on my out feed table.  Once everything was clamped and square I tacked everything together with some 1” brads.

Back of Drawer

Just another shot of the dado’s coming together at the front of the drawer below.

Drawer Bottom Dado

With the boxes nailed together I took a measurement and ripped the plywood bottoms. The drawer bottoms dropped right into the dado and from the photo below you can see why I ripped the dado of the back of the drawer boxes.  The bottom will float freely in the dado, and just be attached to the back of the drawer with a couple screws.

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Prior to screwing the drawer bottom to the back of the drawer, I clamp my speed square onto the back corner of the box to help keep everything square while I drive the screws home.

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With the drawers done its time to mount the drawer slides.  Basically following the instructions.  I saw on a you tube video the other day a neat trick to mounting the slides and figured I would give it a try.  Basically you use a couple spacer blocks.  In my case I have two 1/4” thick pieces of masonite.  First you lay the two pieces of masonite on your frame.

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The masonite will support the drawer slide 1/2” off the frame.  I found it was easier to clamp the drawer slide in place prior to screwing it to the box.  Once your first screw is in place, you can remove the clamp and add the other two screws for this slide and then repeat for the other side.

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With both slides screwed in place you take and put only one piece of masonite under each drawer slide.  These will acts as 1/4” spacers keeping your drawer up off the frame.

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Then you pull the drawer into the opening and pull both the drawer and slides out far enough so you can access the first set of screw holes.  I found clamping the drawer slides in place helped to keep everything from shifting as I was driving screws into the slides.  Once you put your first screw in both sides you can then remove the clamp and slide the drawer out to the next set of screw holes, and so on.  This was actually much easier than I thought it would be.

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I slapped on a couple drawer pulls, which were much more classier than my miter stand, and through some particle board below on the bottom of the stand to act as a shelf for some other tools and I was on may way.  I left my options open if I want to dress it up further with some pine trim and drawer fronts, but we will need to wait and see.

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January 7, 2014 Posted by | Woodworking | , , , , | 2 Comments

Quilting Table – 2.0

Part two of the quilting table saga.  In order to get a better fit of the quilting table I needed to taper part of the plywood top that was towards the back rear of the sewing machine.  Doing this meant a little bit of hand tool work.  I stood the piece vertically in my vise and with a hand saw, yes I did say handsaw, I cut the angled portion of the cut.  I then cleaned up the cut with some chisels and some sand paper.  It only took me one trip up to the sewing room to test fit my handiwork before I had a tight fit.

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After test fitting the table top and making sure the top would sit flush it was time to focus on the legs.

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During my last trip to the home center I had picked up some adjustable glide feet that I thought would be perfect for the final adjustments I would need to level the top in place.  I also had some left over 5/4 pine that would also be beefy enough to support the table top, provide a little weight to the top, and at 1-1/8” wide would provide a little more gluing area for attaching the legs to the top.

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With an idea of how long each leg needed to be plus how tall each leg needed to be it was easy to rip them to width and cut them to length.  Per the instructions on the glides I drilled a hole for each glide that was 23/64” in diameter and 1-1/8” deep.

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With the holes drilled the white portion of glides tap into the wood until they are seated.

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Below is one of the legs with the glides installed.

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I failed to take photos of the installation of the legs but basically each leg was glued and screwed from below up into the top.  I wanted take the easy way out and screw or nail from the table top down into the legs, but this would have not looked as clean on the top, so I decided to pass.  Fastening from the top down would have also been much stronger that fastening from below, but I had my marching orders.  Below is the quilting table with legs and adjustable feet installed.

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A couple more photos from the front, notice I had to to a little notching by the bobbin holder so the little trap door could slide out to change the bobbins.  Nothing a little 80-grit sand paper could not take care of.

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A shot from behind, that shows where I had to taper the plywood in the back for the tighter fit.

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Just another angle.

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Now off to finish with some poly and hopefully just a light buffing with some steel wool.

December 28, 2013 Posted by | Woodworking | , , , , , | 2 Comments

Quilting Table – 1.0

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For those of you wondering what a quilting table is, it’s basically an in-feed/out-feed table like you would see with a table saw but smaller, less manly, and scaled down for a sewing machine.  There are commercially made plastic one, but my client, wants a wood one, hand made by her own wood shop.  As with all of her projects I request a plan/drawing, prior to start of fabrication.  Basically the orange is the sewing machine in plan view and the green is the quilting table.  The size of the table will be 18” x 22” and this will fit snug against the sewing machine “free arm”.  The sewing machine “free arm” or bed as I am going to call it is only about 3-1/2” by 11”, which is tiny in woodworking standards.

The first thing I did was take a large piece of paper and trace a paper template of the sewing machine bed.  Since the quilting table needs to be fairly snug up against the machine a template would help get me pretty close to the final size.

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With the paper template of the sewing bed cut out I decided to make one more template out of 1/4” hardboard.  The hardboard is easier to work with than the 1/2” birch plywood top Wen had chosen for her quilting table and it is easier to fine tune with a coarse file to get the exacting dimensions I am looking for.  Another bonus is that I can then use the hardboard as a pattern/template that I can attach to my plywood and use a router with a flush bit to get an exact copy.

Step #1

I cut a piece of 1/4” hardboard to 18” x 22” per the pre-approved plan.  Next I laid out 3 lines, one 9” from the left side, one 6” from the front, and one 6” from the back.  These layout lines gave me a nice rectangle on which to locate the paper template of the sewing machine bed.  After a brief consultation with the boss it was decided to locate the front of the bed 6” from the front edge of the hardboard.  I held the paper template in place and traced the outline by hand.

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Step #2

With the outline complete, I cut out the sewing bed area with a handheld jig saw.  as you can see below I purposely stayed 1/16” away from the pencil line.  this is so I could fine tune the pattern with a coarse file.

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Wen also decided that the quilting table should have rounded corners so I took a small can of stain and traced around it at the four corners of the table.

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Step #3

After filing the hardboard to the pencil line I had laid out it was up to the sewing machine to check fit. The fit needed to be snug so I erred on the side of caution figuring it was easier to file more material away for a perfect fit, rather that having to add material.

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It’s hard to tell from the photo above, but the first pass was almost a perfect fit.  The hardboard template was a little tight at the back curve and a little tight in the front.  Back down to the garage for some fine tuning with the file.

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Once again, hard to see, but this time we had a perfect fit.

Step #4

There were some slight changes to the design of the quilting table so I am glad we mocked it up with hardboard first.  The plywood below is 18”x22”, and after we test fit the hardboard to the sewing machine we discovered the front of the quilting table was protruding a little too much, so with a quick pass at the table saw we took off a couple inches. You can see below that the plywood is oversized partially for the design change but I wanted it oversized so I could screw the template on and have plenty of room to run the router around and get a perfect fit.  I used some 3/4” wood screws with finish washers to attached the hardboard template to the underside of the quilting platform.

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I then took a jig saw and cut 3/8” of an inch away from the edge of the hardboard.  I did this because the plywood tend to want to chip and splinter when using a jig saw.  The goal here was to remove the bulk of the material so I could come in afterwards with my router and a flush cut bit to finish up.

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Above you will see a slight design change, which is too hard to explain, but was needed.  So below I added a piece of hardboard to allow me to run my router right up to the desired dimension.

Quilting Table Pattern

I turned the piece over ran my router around the quilting table top and had an instant copy of my hardboard template.

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Step #5

The last step for today was to to a round over to help prevent fabric materials from catching while the boss is sewing.  I mocked up two round overs to make sure the boss could pick the correct one.  Keep in mind that this edge will be sanded smooth and coated with poly so this rougher plywood edge should smooth right out with a little putty and sanding.

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The quilting table edge below.

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The quilting table top 95% complete.  I just need to remove the hardboard backer, do some final fitting, and then its off to build some adjustable legs.

Quilting Table

December 26, 2013 Posted by | Woodworking | , , , , , | 2 Comments

What do you mean the garage is for cars…

Hard to believe its December.  Seems like yesterday the leaves began to fall, but with our first dusting of snow a week ago winter is definitely on the way.  With this holiday weekend I finally found some time to work on some much needed woodshop projects.  Nothing fancy to see here so there will be no play by play re-cap of the build process, but I figured I needed to get back into more routine blog updates.

I have been playing music chairs with all of my power tools and occasionally setting up temporary work benches on sawhorses outside to support my chop saw, and projects but no more.  The lifting and moving of the tools was a huge pain, and since the boss want to use her stall of the garage this winter to park her car, I needed to build some mobile benches/tool stands.

I had plenty of plywood and 2x’s that could be re-purposed to shop fixtures, so after a quick trip to Lowe’s for some 3” casters, and a quick search on the web for some inspiration I was ready to make some saw dust.

The goal was a moveable assembly bench that could double as an out feed table for my table saw, followed by a stand for my chop saw.

Out-feed Table:

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The main objective here was to make a table that was 36” deep by 60” wide.  The width happens to be pretty close to the width of my table saw.  Another crucial dimension was the height of the table which needed to be equal to or slightly less than the top of the table saw.  Other than that the table design is up for grabs.

I picked out some of the straighter 2×4’s and ripped them on the table saw so that they had square corners.  The first saw set-up was for 3-1/4” width, ran all of the boards through, reset the saw for 3” width, flipped the boards so the square edge was on the fence and ran them through again.  I then cut all the pieces to length on the chop saw.  I had to do some math for the legs, subtracting out the casters, and the thickness of the table top, so I could hold the height dimension of my table saw top.  With all the pieces cut to length I set up my stack dado head set.  I cut a bunch of hap laps, and some 3/4” dadoes for the stretchers.  with all the milling done all the joints are glued, clamped, and screwed.  The overall dimensions for the 2x frame is approximately 29” wide by 48” long.

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Next I cut one sheet of 3/4” particle board to 36” wide by 60” long and screwed it down to the 2x frame from above.  Next I cut a second sheet of particle board oversize to 36-1/2” wide by 60-1/2” long and laid it on top of the first sheet of particle board making sure I had an overhang all the way around the first piece and screwed it down to the first sheet.  I then broke out the router with a 1” flush cutting bit and cut went around the edge of the top.  This router bit gave me a perfectly sized top layer of particle board that dimensionally matched the bottom layer of particle board.

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I applied some contact cement to some left over plastic laminate I had and to the top of particle board table top and presto, an instantly slick table top surface.  I left the laminate oversize and trimmed it flush with edge of the top with my router.  A little bit of pine trim glued with biscuits, and nailed to the edge of the table and the top was nearly finished.  The last thing I did was to ease the edge of the wood trim with a slight round over to help make sure and sheet goods I am pushing through the saw and onto the out feed table don’t hang up.

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Chop Saw Stand:

The main objective with this project was to stop lugging this thing all around the garage to various work surfaces when I need to cut something.  The cabinet construction here is basic as well.  Basically a 2x frame that acts as a base for the casters.  From this base I attached some 1/2” plywood that I had laying around for the sides and the back with 2x stretchers at the top-front and top-back of the box.

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The dimensions for this box were dictated by my saw, so I decided on 24” deep by 30” wide for the top.  The height was dictated by my out feed table, so once again I took the height of the table which is about 35” +/- and subtracted out the height of the saw (3”), the height of the top (1-3/4”), and the casters (3″-1/2”) to get the height of my box.

Once again, no frills, so a double layer of 3/4” particle board and one layer of some left over 1/4” birch plywood, assembled the same way as above using a router to trim each layer flush with previous layer.  I center the chop saw and located it where I wanted it front to back and screwed that puppy down.  From now on when I need to move this thing I will roll it into position…

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Eventually, the out feed table will get a bench vise, and some much needed under table tool storage.  The chop saw stand will get some pine trim, one top drawer and a bin for cut-offs / scrap wood.  For now the shop mods are done, I have been asked to provide some wood frames for some canvas artwork and the boss is looking for a Quilting Platform for her sewing machine.

December 1, 2013 Posted by | Woodworking | , , , , | 7 Comments

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